Crystal Café, Fore Street, Exeter

visited in December 2013, for a reunion of long-distance friends

Like me, if you’re not one of those stereotypical hippie vegans that exist only in the imaginations of bacon-lovers, I encourage you to let the Crystal Café force you to put your ego aside, surround yourself with semi-precious stones and incense, and enjoy becoming that stereotype for a while.

Situated on Fore Street among the greasy-spoons and takeaways, is a little shop called Evolution which is not obviously somewhere you would choose to eat; yet has a couple of tables at the back where you can enjoy a coffee or meal for any dietary requirement.  The Crystal Café now advertise on local radio and are clearly very proud to offer vegetarian and vegan food, which can also be made gluten free. 

When I was lucky enough to have a very dear friend visit me all the way from Australia, I wanted to arrange the best lunch I possibly could.  We wandered around Exeter Christmas market in the cold rainy weather, until suddenly I remembered the existence of the mysterious Crystal Café.  My friend, suffering from the British temperatures and dressed like the Michelin man, was only too happy to go along with it.

In 2013, the Crystal Café only had two small tables, but it seemed that the rain had warded off any competitors we might have had in our quest for coffee.  We were greeted by a man who had apparently teleported in from the 1700s, addressing us an ‘My Lady’ at every opportunity and telling us enthusiastically about a whisky club around the corner with a years-long waiting list. 

Once the stories were over and we were firmly back in a new century, we ordered our coffee and tea which arrived in lovely stoneware cups; the tea even had its own timer and colour chart to ensure perfect brewing.

On this particular day, they hadn’t anticipated us; one vegan and one gluten-free, and there was nothing on the menu board under these criteria.  Ashamedly we asked ‘Our Man’ and he excitedly went to the kitchen to ask the chef.  They were only too happy to cater to our needs and I was quickly presented with a wonderful plate of vegetable tempura; chunky vegetables in crispy batter, all deep fried to perfection and served with salad and dips.  Perfect for a winter’s day, and something that I wouldn’t have made at home, so a proper treat!  It was also reassuring to know that the chef could whip up something so tasty at the drop of a hat,   so it was likely that if I went back again, he would create something different and not wheel out the same 'emergency' vegan dish!

The Crystal Café was really cosy, relaxed and unusual.  It’s a real hidden gem (excuse the pun) and it was a pleasure to eat there.  Since our visit it has been renovated, unsurprisingly, to put more emphasis on the kitchen and I look forward to writing another review soon.

Radio Dart Café Lounge, Dartmouth

Visited on the 28th September 2014, for a birthday treat

Dartmouth doesn’t seem to conjure thoughts of particularly vegan-friendly food; many a cold afternoon has been spent wandering around similarly sized country towns in search of something other than a packet of crisps.  When I think of this small little riverside town, I think of ice-cream, fish and chips, and grockles in hopeless, aimless searches for the nearest Starbucks.  I had no idea that the Radio Dart Café even existed, so was very lucky that my brother had discovered it a few months previously and remembered it for my birthday.

The Radio Dart café is a truly unique place; its uniqueness however, partly isn’t through conscious choice.  In 2010, a fish and chip shop down the road caught fire, which quickly spread to the adjoining buildings.  Their age and proximity meant that it was not only extra difficult to get the fire under control, but that it also quickly caused massive structural damage to 8 cafes and 15 residences.  The Grade I and II listed buildings also obviously suffered cosmetic damage and would never be the same again.  Thankfully no-one was hurt, but the fire cost the town over £10m and was enough for the council to ban production and sales of hot food in some of the tightly-knit back streets of Dartmouth harbour.  If you're interested in learning more, the Radio Dart café walls are emblazoned with newspaper cuttings and photos of the fire.

So, why does this make the Radio Dart café unique?  Well, raw and cold food naturally lends itself to veganism (don’t get me wrong; there are of course thousands of hot possibilities!).  Though they do serve plates of cold meats, quiches, and cheese sandwiches, they offer a fantastic vegan platter and were very enthusiastic to show off what else they could offer (despite informing us that they were all a little hung over from a party the previous night!).  It was a pleasure to be served somewhere where they embraced my request rather than seeing it as ‘specialist’ or an inconvenience.  The menu screamed at me to order everything!

I refrained from doing so, for fear of not having any space for the incredible-looking platter. It was a good decision as the platter was insanely tasty; tomato/bean/couscous salad; black olive tapenade, houmous, a bowl of creamy quinoa, smoked tofu, freshly chopped salad, all served alongside gluten-free spinach crackers, and the freshly baked bread shared among the table. It was a perfectly harmonious and filling meal; so much so that my mum commented on how happy I looked!  

The vegan-friendly beer, from Suma, was the (vegan) icing on the (vegan) cake!  A large group were clearly enjoying it at the back of the cafe, under a huge sign which they had clearly taken as an order.

Now being the writer of a food blog, I am kind of obligated to at least ask about dessert.  Much of the time I dread being met with the usual wide-eyed look of panic and fear, but this time the cook came out to see me and kindly said that although they didn’t have anything prepared, she would be happy to whip up a bowl of fresh fruit and yoghurt with grated vegan chocolate.  Even though I was more than full from the amazing platter, I couldn’t turn it down!  Even better, I didn't have to watch my loved ones chow down on cake, looking at me with pity whilst I sipped my coffee.

If you don’t live nearby and own a boat, Dartmouth can be a bit of a challenge to get to.  However, if you’re in the mood for a ferry trip, some trinket-shopping, and being surrounded by city-dwellers completely out of their comfort-zone, I suggest you also pay the Radio Dart café a visit.  You won’t be disappointed!  My only regret is that I haven't been able to get back there yet.

The Vegan Kind TVK#10

received on the 8th August 2014, in time for an indulgent Friday coffee break

Allow me to introduce you to The Vegan Kind.  It's my little treat to myself every month.  And somehow, though I set up the direct debit, it always catches me unawares, arriving at my desk at the exact moment my hunger pangs have me reaching for my wallet and comiserating that it's ready salted canteen crisps again.  I suspect that the postman thinks I have a crush on him, as I'm always so happy when he arrives with my goodies.

For £10 a month, plus £2.95 delivery, you too can be the owner of random vegan pleasures.  Every month, the box is stocked with new and popular vegan food and cosmetics.  Not only that, you also get a free (laminated!) recipe, discounts on future purchases of the enclosed products, and info on the chosen charity which is benefitting from this month's profits.


This box is the tenth instalment of The Vegan Kind, and the fourth for me.  Here's some thoughts on what plopped onto my desk this morning.

Nothing But snacks:  Vegetable Crisps seem to have taken off, but these are something else.  They dissolve in your mouth like sherbert sweets, with all the taste of the veggies they are.  It's like space food, light but vibrant, and something that would be very difficult to make at home.  One pack comes in at only 26 calories; amazing that so much taste could be packed in!

Freedom Mallows: I remember the early days of my vegetarianism, when I didn't realise that sweets contained boiled cows' bones.  Yuk, what a downer.  I also remember the days that I discovered scum-free candy, particularly Freedom Mallows.  I first picked them up at the Cruelty-free Christmas Fair in Exeter and always look forward to Vegfest where these are easy to come by.  They will imminently be melting into my almond milk hot chocolate...

Pulsin protein snacks:  These are like healthy fudge.  HEALTHY FUDGE.  There is nothing more to say, just eat it!

Proper Corn popcorn: Recently, I've been looking longingly at these types of specialist popcorns, only to discover that all of them contain milk.  Why?  It's a mystery.  A very disappointing mystery.  These are dairy-free and I inhaled the entire pack within about 60 seconds of the box arriving.  It's sweet and salty.  A paradox.  A delicious, delicious paradox.

Living Naturally Soap Nuts:  I find that the cosmetics are always the most surprising of additions to the box.  In the past I've had detergent, dry shampoo, and facial toner, all of which have been excellent.  Usually in trial size, this large pack of 20 'nuts' was a pleasant surprise.  The information claims that they clean whites and fixed colours at any temperature between 30 and 90 degrees.  If my clothes come out sparkling, I'll be buying a sack full.




Additons:  Recipe this month was for a sweet salad by Coconut and Berries, and the charity was Nut House Hen Rescue.  Do some good and stuff your face? Why wouldn't you?

Charity and recipe

This month's offers and retail prices

Samphire Brasserie, Mayflower Street, Plymouth

visited in February 2014, on a random day out.

When I first discovered a brasserie called Samphire, I couldn't believe I hadn't heard about it before. A vegetarian restaurant (all dishes can be made vegan), which showcases contemporary dishes as good as any you'd find in a carnivorous setting. Of course, at the time I didn't know for sure if it was as good as it sounded, so we went on a covert mission to Plymouth to find out! Samphire also use organic, seasonal ingredients, as well as boasting their own range of home-made vegan cheese. Sounds too good to be true, doesn't it?

It's not too good to be true. It is true. It's a worthwhile walk from Plymouth city centre in the rain, and we were greeted by a very enthusiastic and welcoming waitress. Her enthusiasm and attentiveness was unwavering, and she continued to be a shining light of helpfulness throughout the evening. She reeled off the menu, specials, and drinks advice. We had forgotten our wine (Samphire isn't licensed, so charges corkage), so we chose the fizzy wonderfulness of a Fentiman's Pink Lemonade. If you are booze-inclined, there is a supermarket a few doors down.

After much, much deliberation, I plumped for the mushroom scallops as a starter, and traditional fish and chips for the main. I doubt I would have been disappointed with any of the other options.

Food at Samphire starts where it should; presentation, presentation, presentation. When the scallops arrived, I gobbled them up with my eyes in seconds, before repeating much more slowly the traditional way. I had mentioned to the upbeat waitress that I loved tempeh, and she convinced the chef to give me a double portion. Now that's customer care.

The fish and chips was also beautifully presented and I dived right in. The fish was soya-based with a slither of seaweed for that salty marine realism. The 'fish' was pink and had the texture of a flaky (but moist) soy burger and the batter was crunchy and thick. I haven't eaten fish for nigh-on 20 years, and this was proverbial music to my tastebuds (they even did a little dance). The creamy tartare sauce and curried mushy peas were the perfect guests to the party. I immediately wanted to see what else they had to offer, but my bursting stomach pleaded with me to hold my horses.

The décor reminded me of a conservatory; bright, airy, with the green colour scheme giving it that natural feel, and a dado rail of Fentiman's bottles suggesting that this drink is very popular, not just with those who forget their wine! It was fairly cold as one lone electric heater struggled to warm the expanse, and the lack of music made us feel slightly uncomfortable as we were the only customers early in the evening. All this can be forgiven as were were on their doorstep the minute they opened, and it was the middle of a particularly cold winter. 

The true quality of Samphire is demonstrated by the fact that when I revisited their website to check the dishes for this article, they were no longer there and the menu had been refreshed (save for a few staples). They truly seem to believe in the versatility and imagination that is possible with vegan cooking, and exemplify it in spades.  The customer service was an example to any caterer, including boxing up my leftover (but beloved) food so I could relive it later. I'm very much looking forward to going back, this time with my wine, which I won't drink until I've filled my empty stomach on Samphire goodness.

Feedback to and from the Cosy Club, Exeter

the 26^th July, after providing negative feedback. See here for the initial experience.

Dear Cosy Club,

I booked online in advance and added that I was a vegan. In fact, I chose to eat at the Cosy Club because vegans are given special attention on the website and menu, so I had high expectations and was excited about what would be on offer. The server seemed to know I was vegan and so gave me the vegan menu, but under Mains it simply stated ‘ask for details’. The server had gone, so I had to get her back, and then she didn’t know what the vegan options were. When she returned from asking the kitchen, there appeared to be only one option so I had no choice but to order that; I didn’t want to perpetuate the myth that vegans are demanding by asking for a second option. It is always nice to have choice, but I didn’t feel that I had it here; I felt a bit like I was an inconvenience for the chef to be honest.

The food was average at best; peppers stuffed with quite a conservative amount of couscous, on a bed of new potatoes and crunchy string beans. It was a shame there was no sauce to accompany it as it was all a little dry. I don’t know what type of sauce would have been used, as the combination of ingredients was quite random to start with, like the meal was thrown together with whatever was in the kitchen. To be honest, I could have stayed at home and made something better. There was also no beans/lentils/tofu/tempeh/alternative which I would expect from a restaurant that advertises vegan food. Chips are also vegan but no takeaways advertise this; the point I’m making is that if you advertise vegan meals then your customers will expect some more in-depth consideration.


The staff were helpful and the dessert was gorgeous. I write a vegan food blog and an part of many vegan groups in the region, I can guarantee that if there was an improvement in quality and thought, you would have a potential new customer base. This time, I left feeling disappointed and slightly cheated. I would suggest that an experienced member of the kitchen team puts together a number of good quality vegan meals which can be rotated regularly, and are easy to prepare. Then, when a vegan customer asks what is available, they have choice and should receive a good quality meal. Otherwise, maybe the vegan references should be taken off the publicity..?

Hi Helen,

Thanks for your feedback regarding your recent visit to Cosy Club Exeter, and I'm really sorry to read that you didn't enjoy the vegan food that we provided for you.

We are really proud of the fact that we have separate menus for people with special dietary needs and requests, and on the whole the menu choices we provide are always well received. The vegan menu is one where we try to allow our chefs a bit of creative freedom, allowing them the opportunity to go 'off menu' and provide something delicious for our customers, so I am really sorry to hear that on this occasion we have let you down.

In wake of your e-mail I have sat down with my kitchen team in order to put together some set vegan dishes that all chefs are aware of and fully trained in preparing so that this kind of disappointment does not occur again. If you would like to provide me with a postal address I would be happy to send you out some vouchers so you can come and try what we have put together and allow me to show you that we are an excellent choice for the vegan community of Exeter.

Kind Regards,

JW

General Manager

Cosy Club Exeter

Dear J,


Thanks for your e-mail and I hope I didn’t offend. I do appreciate that your kitchen work hard to provide nice food for everyone, and have heard really good things about the Cosy Club which is why we chose to have dinner with you. I have gone ‘off-menu’ in the past and understand what you mean about the opportunity to be creative; it can have amazing results. Last time I did this however (the Magdalen Chapter), the open kitchen was clearly in a state of panic(!) and their attitude to me as a customer was highly disappointing. On this occasion at the Cosy Club I just thought the imagination was missing a little, or that I’d caught the chef off-guard and s/he wasn’t experienced in cooking without meat or dairy ingredients. I hope my comments were taken in the constructive manner that I intended them.


I really appreciate your response and taking forward some ideas; I’ll be sure to let my friends and local vegans know about it! I would love to come back sometime in the near future.


I’m so glad that more and more eateries around Exeter are considering the vegan community and don’t make us feel like difficult customers, simply for our ethical choices.  In the past I have told serving staff that I’m a lactose-intolerant vegetarian as this sadly sometimes means that the service is better.  It is great to know that places like yours exist.

The Cosy Club, Southernhay Gardens, Exeter

visited on the 23^rd July 2014, for a new job celebration.

Surrounded by the Estate Agents and Solicitors of Exeter, the Cosy Club is in an unusual location away from the bustle of the City Centre, but walkable if you know where it is. I had heard (tummy) rumblings of their vegan menu on various social media groups and when asked by a lactose intolerant comrade where I'd prefer to dine to celebrate leaving employment, it came straight to mind as the ideal venue. 

 

Inside, the building is absolutely beautiful and quite unique; very roomy despite having that 'bric-a-braccy' vintage feel. The mismatched furniture and lampshades really give the place a quirk, making it feel more relaxed, yet retaining an air of poshness that makes you feel a bit special for the evening.  You might say it's, well, cosy.

I had booked online a few days in advance, being very careful to mention our dietary requirements, so was pleased that a vegan menu was presented to me without having to ask. Annoyingly, by the time I'd realised that the Mains were 'please ask the server for details', she had vanished. Upon her return, I asked the inevitable and she scurried off to the kitchen to get the low-down. Exciting stuff!

The waitress soon reappeared and told me that there was “stuffed peppers on a bed of new potato and string bean salad.” Nice, but I waited for the second option. Alas, the poor girl looked at me in desperation, willing me to accept her offer; it was obvious that there was nothing else unless I wanted to look like one of those demanding, unappeasable vegans.

I ordered the rather odd main and it arrived. It was a perfectly good meal and it was clear that no dairy had been used.... However. Yes, there sadly is a however. The combination of stuffed peppers and new potatoes was unusual, and I suspect that the lack of sauce was because gravy or some kind of tomato relish would have clashed with one of the other components on the plate. As a result it was fairly dry and uninteresting. The red peppers were tasty, but I felt that the stuffing lacked some love; they were filled with quite a conservative portion of plain couscous and chives, with an unseasoned baked tomato perched on top.  The potatoes and beans were somewhat  al dente, but since they were the 'salad', I guess it made sense, right?

Vegan Main; Stuffed peppers on a bed of new potato and bean salad

Soul food is supposed to make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside. This food made me feel disappointed and slightly cheated, like I had been an inconvenience to the chef and s/he had thrown the dish together randomly with whatever was left over in the kitchen. There was also no beans/lentils/tofu/tempeh/seitan/vegan cheese/alternative which I would have expected from a restaurant that advertises vegan food as a speciality .

I was glad that I had room saved for dessert; the chocolate orange torte was creamy and rich, though I still felt that it lacked that extra garnish that would have made it pretty as well as delicious. A slither of orange rind and a sprig of mint would have made all the difference.


Whilst waiting to pay, I asked the server whether the vegan main was changed regularly in case I came back (there's a restaurant in Torquay that's had the same veggie option for 15 years...). His response was that chefs do in fact make it up on the night and it depended who was working.  It's a shame that this is so obvious; talented, experienced chefs should be able to knock something delicious up for any dietary requirement, let alone one which is specified on the menu as being catered for.
The following day I received an e-mail offering me a chance to win £50 for my feedback. I gladly took them up on this and what transpired will follow in the next article.  Spoiler: I did not win £50, but they get 10/10 for customer service.

Pepe Nero, Bond Street, Bristol

 Visited on the 13^th November, for pre-hippodrome nourishment

One of the joys of going to a ‘proper city’ is that you can be fairly confident that there will be one or more vegan restaurants.  In Bristol, home of the south-west’s VegFest festival, this is certainly true.  It’s a mission to find a place that has a vegan option, it takes pre-planning to find a place that serves only vegan food and so has a wide range.  Pepe Nero somehow manages to be a bit of both.  The number of vegan options is equal to or greater than the number of meat counterparts, and the vegan selection is varied and exciting! 

Pepe Nero is the place you see in your belly-rumbling dreams.  There’s a lot of vegan food about these days, but much of it is, dare I say it, healthy.  We human beings naturally crave a bit of junk food now and then, and Pepe Nero has this covered (though I hasten to add their food is far from the greasy processed muck that is usually what we call ‘fast food’).  Situated by Bristol’s ‘Bear Pit’ for the last 2 years, Pepe Nero offers a range of Italian food, with an extensive range of vegan pizza.  It will take you at least one hour to decide; I suggest you check their website before you go, be amazed in advance, and plan your choice ahead!

Salvatore, the founder/manager, came to speak to us after hearing about this blog.  He is a traditional Italian cook, and uses recipes from his home town (not too much yeast and a long rise time) which makes the dough lighter and less heavy on the stomach.  All of his staff are from the same area of Italy, “the heel of the boot”, which gives it a really nice family vibe.

The decision to provide vegan alternatives was in response to market research and demand, and he said that while the ingredients are more expensive for him, this isn’t reflected in the sale price and he gets a lot of vegan customers.  They offer a choice of base (plain or wholemeal), and they use organic ingredients.    

So let’s cut to the chase; could it be that the food was as fantastic as it sounded?  There is a very simple answer, and it isn’t ‘No’.  Enjoy that double negative and then book yourself a table.  I started with a huge bowl of unpitted olives, .  They were big, salted, spiced with chilli, and lovely as expected.  The only thing stopping me demolishing the entire bowl was the fear of not having space for my pizza de resistance!  My partner enjoyed a bruschetta which I’m told was also very nice.

Finally, it was time for pizza!  Pepe Nero makes vegan pizza an art form with their combination of different ‘cheeses’, all perfectly melted and indistinguishable from their dairy counterparts, both in looks and taste; something I have seldom achieved at home!  I chose a vegan ‘Salmone’ pizza, and the other half chose a vegan spicy chorizo topping for his.

Vegan Salmone pizza

Vegan Diavola

Not having ever eaten real salmon, I don’t know whether it was realistic, but that is neither relevant or necessary for us to know (though the other half confirmed there was little difference).  The pizza was perfectly cooked, very tasty, and I ate all of it (almost) without feeling like I needed to be either rolled home or spend the winter months holed up in a gym.  My dining buddy (currently transitioning from carnivore to herbivore) summed it up in some beautiful words, whilst he absorbed the aroma and appearance: “Nothing was hurt to make this?”.  

As I’m sure you have gathered, Pepe Nero is a fantastic place to eat, and one of a kind in this country.  I wholeheartedly hope that it continues to prosper, and that we see franchises popping up all over Britain.  If not, this is possibly a restaurant worth upping sticks and moving to Bristol for.  Incredible!