Samphire Brasserie, Mayflower Street, Plymouth

visited in February 2014, on a random day out.

When I first discovered a brasserie called Samphire, I couldn't believe I hadn't heard about it before. A vegetarian restaurant (all dishes can be made vegan), which showcases contemporary dishes as good as any you'd find in a carnivorous setting. Of course, at the time I didn't know for sure if it was as good as it sounded, so we went on a covert mission to Plymouth to find out! Samphire also use organic, seasonal ingredients, as well as boasting their own range of home-made vegan cheese. Sounds too good to be true, doesn't it?

It's not too good to be true. It is true. It's a worthwhile walk from Plymouth city centre in the rain, and we were greeted by a very enthusiastic and welcoming waitress. Her enthusiasm and attentiveness was unwavering, and she continued to be a shining light of helpfulness throughout the evening. She reeled off the menu, specials, and drinks advice. We had forgotten our wine (Samphire isn't licensed, so charges corkage), so we chose the fizzy wonderfulness of a Fentiman's Pink Lemonade. If you are booze-inclined, there is a supermarket a few doors down.

After much, much deliberation, I plumped for the mushroom scallops as a starter, and traditional fish and chips for the main. I doubt I would have been disappointed with any of the other options.

Food at Samphire starts where it should; presentation, presentation, presentation. When the scallops arrived, I gobbled them up with my eyes in seconds, before repeating much more slowly the traditional way. I had mentioned to the upbeat waitress that I loved tempeh, and she convinced the chef to give me a double portion. Now that's customer care.

The fish and chips was also beautifully presented and I dived right in. The fish was soya-based with a slither of seaweed for that salty marine realism. The 'fish' was pink and had the texture of a flaky (but moist) soy burger and the batter was crunchy and thick. I haven't eaten fish for nigh-on 20 years, and this was proverbial music to my tastebuds (they even did a little dance). The creamy tartare sauce and curried mushy peas were the perfect guests to the party. I immediately wanted to see what else they had to offer, but my bursting stomach pleaded with me to hold my horses.

The décor reminded me of a conservatory; bright, airy, with the green colour scheme giving it that natural feel, and a dado rail of Fentiman's bottles suggesting that this drink is very popular, not just with those who forget their wine! It was fairly cold as one lone electric heater struggled to warm the expanse, and the lack of music made us feel slightly uncomfortable as we were the only customers early in the evening. All this can be forgiven as were were on their doorstep the minute they opened, and it was the middle of a particularly cold winter. 

The true quality of Samphire is demonstrated by the fact that when I revisited their website to check the dishes for this article, they were no longer there and the menu had been refreshed (save for a few staples). They truly seem to believe in the versatility and imagination that is possible with vegan cooking, and exemplify it in spades.  The customer service was an example to any caterer, including boxing up my leftover (but beloved) food so I could relive it later. I'm very much looking forward to going back, this time with my wine, which I won't drink until I've filled my empty stomach on Samphire goodness.