The Vegan Kind TVK#10

received on the 8th August 2014, in time for an indulgent Friday coffee break

Allow me to introduce you to The Vegan Kind.  It's my little treat to myself every month.  And somehow, though I set up the direct debit, it always catches me unawares, arriving at my desk at the exact moment my hunger pangs have me reaching for my wallet and comiserating that it's ready salted canteen crisps again.  I suspect that the postman thinks I have a crush on him, as I'm always so happy when he arrives with my goodies.

For £10 a month, plus £2.95 delivery, you too can be the owner of random vegan pleasures.  Every month, the box is stocked with new and popular vegan food and cosmetics.  Not only that, you also get a free (laminated!) recipe, discounts on future purchases of the enclosed products, and info on the chosen charity which is benefitting from this month's profits.


This box is the tenth instalment of The Vegan Kind, and the fourth for me.  Here's some thoughts on what plopped onto my desk this morning.

Nothing But snacks:  Vegetable Crisps seem to have taken off, but these are something else.  They dissolve in your mouth like sherbert sweets, with all the taste of the veggies they are.  It's like space food, light but vibrant, and something that would be very difficult to make at home.  One pack comes in at only 26 calories; amazing that so much taste could be packed in!

Freedom Mallows: I remember the early days of my vegetarianism, when I didn't realise that sweets contained boiled cows' bones.  Yuk, what a downer.  I also remember the days that I discovered scum-free candy, particularly Freedom Mallows.  I first picked them up at the Cruelty-free Christmas Fair in Exeter and always look forward to Vegfest where these are easy to come by.  They will imminently be melting into my almond milk hot chocolate...

Pulsin protein snacks:  These are like healthy fudge.  HEALTHY FUDGE.  There is nothing more to say, just eat it!

Proper Corn popcorn: Recently, I've been looking longingly at these types of specialist popcorns, only to discover that all of them contain milk.  Why?  It's a mystery.  A very disappointing mystery.  These are dairy-free and I inhaled the entire pack within about 60 seconds of the box arriving.  It's sweet and salty.  A paradox.  A delicious, delicious paradox.

Living Naturally Soap Nuts:  I find that the cosmetics are always the most surprising of additions to the box.  In the past I've had detergent, dry shampoo, and facial toner, all of which have been excellent.  Usually in trial size, this large pack of 20 'nuts' was a pleasant surprise.  The information claims that they clean whites and fixed colours at any temperature between 30 and 90 degrees.  If my clothes come out sparkling, I'll be buying a sack full.




Additons:  Recipe this month was for a sweet salad by Coconut and Berries, and the charity was Nut House Hen Rescue.  Do some good and stuff your face? Why wouldn't you?

Charity and recipe

This month's offers and retail prices

Samphire Brasserie, Mayflower Street, Plymouth

visited in February 2014, on a random day out.

When I first discovered a brasserie called Samphire, I couldn't believe I hadn't heard about it before. A vegetarian restaurant (all dishes can be made vegan), which showcases contemporary dishes as good as any you'd find in a carnivorous setting. Of course, at the time I didn't know for sure if it was as good as it sounded, so we went on a covert mission to Plymouth to find out! Samphire also use organic, seasonal ingredients, as well as boasting their own range of home-made vegan cheese. Sounds too good to be true, doesn't it?

It's not too good to be true. It is true. It's a worthwhile walk from Plymouth city centre in the rain, and we were greeted by a very enthusiastic and welcoming waitress. Her enthusiasm and attentiveness was unwavering, and she continued to be a shining light of helpfulness throughout the evening. She reeled off the menu, specials, and drinks advice. We had forgotten our wine (Samphire isn't licensed, so charges corkage), so we chose the fizzy wonderfulness of a Fentiman's Pink Lemonade. If you are booze-inclined, there is a supermarket a few doors down.

After much, much deliberation, I plumped for the mushroom scallops as a starter, and traditional fish and chips for the main. I doubt I would have been disappointed with any of the other options.

Food at Samphire starts where it should; presentation, presentation, presentation. When the scallops arrived, I gobbled them up with my eyes in seconds, before repeating much more slowly the traditional way. I had mentioned to the upbeat waitress that I loved tempeh, and she convinced the chef to give me a double portion. Now that's customer care.

The fish and chips was also beautifully presented and I dived right in. The fish was soya-based with a slither of seaweed for that salty marine realism. The 'fish' was pink and had the texture of a flaky (but moist) soy burger and the batter was crunchy and thick. I haven't eaten fish for nigh-on 20 years, and this was proverbial music to my tastebuds (they even did a little dance). The creamy tartare sauce and curried mushy peas were the perfect guests to the party. I immediately wanted to see what else they had to offer, but my bursting stomach pleaded with me to hold my horses.

The décor reminded me of a conservatory; bright, airy, with the green colour scheme giving it that natural feel, and a dado rail of Fentiman's bottles suggesting that this drink is very popular, not just with those who forget their wine! It was fairly cold as one lone electric heater struggled to warm the expanse, and the lack of music made us feel slightly uncomfortable as we were the only customers early in the evening. All this can be forgiven as were were on their doorstep the minute they opened, and it was the middle of a particularly cold winter. 

The true quality of Samphire is demonstrated by the fact that when I revisited their website to check the dishes for this article, they were no longer there and the menu had been refreshed (save for a few staples). They truly seem to believe in the versatility and imagination that is possible with vegan cooking, and exemplify it in spades.  The customer service was an example to any caterer, including boxing up my leftover (but beloved) food so I could relive it later. I'm very much looking forward to going back, this time with my wine, which I won't drink until I've filled my empty stomach on Samphire goodness.

Feedback to and from the Cosy Club, Exeter

the 26^th July, after providing negative feedback. See here for the initial experience.

Dear Cosy Club,

I booked online in advance and added that I was a vegan. In fact, I chose to eat at the Cosy Club because vegans are given special attention on the website and menu, so I had high expectations and was excited about what would be on offer. The server seemed to know I was vegan and so gave me the vegan menu, but under Mains it simply stated ‘ask for details’. The server had gone, so I had to get her back, and then she didn’t know what the vegan options were. When she returned from asking the kitchen, there appeared to be only one option so I had no choice but to order that; I didn’t want to perpetuate the myth that vegans are demanding by asking for a second option. It is always nice to have choice, but I didn’t feel that I had it here; I felt a bit like I was an inconvenience for the chef to be honest.

The food was average at best; peppers stuffed with quite a conservative amount of couscous, on a bed of new potatoes and crunchy string beans. It was a shame there was no sauce to accompany it as it was all a little dry. I don’t know what type of sauce would have been used, as the combination of ingredients was quite random to start with, like the meal was thrown together with whatever was in the kitchen. To be honest, I could have stayed at home and made something better. There was also no beans/lentils/tofu/tempeh/alternative which I would expect from a restaurant that advertises vegan food. Chips are also vegan but no takeaways advertise this; the point I’m making is that if you advertise vegan meals then your customers will expect some more in-depth consideration.


The staff were helpful and the dessert was gorgeous. I write a vegan food blog and an part of many vegan groups in the region, I can guarantee that if there was an improvement in quality and thought, you would have a potential new customer base. This time, I left feeling disappointed and slightly cheated. I would suggest that an experienced member of the kitchen team puts together a number of good quality vegan meals which can be rotated regularly, and are easy to prepare. Then, when a vegan customer asks what is available, they have choice and should receive a good quality meal. Otherwise, maybe the vegan references should be taken off the publicity..?

Hi Helen,

Thanks for your feedback regarding your recent visit to Cosy Club Exeter, and I'm really sorry to read that you didn't enjoy the vegan food that we provided for you.

We are really proud of the fact that we have separate menus for people with special dietary needs and requests, and on the whole the menu choices we provide are always well received. The vegan menu is one where we try to allow our chefs a bit of creative freedom, allowing them the opportunity to go 'off menu' and provide something delicious for our customers, so I am really sorry to hear that on this occasion we have let you down.

In wake of your e-mail I have sat down with my kitchen team in order to put together some set vegan dishes that all chefs are aware of and fully trained in preparing so that this kind of disappointment does not occur again. If you would like to provide me with a postal address I would be happy to send you out some vouchers so you can come and try what we have put together and allow me to show you that we are an excellent choice for the vegan community of Exeter.

Kind Regards,

JW

General Manager

Cosy Club Exeter

Dear J,


Thanks for your e-mail and I hope I didn’t offend. I do appreciate that your kitchen work hard to provide nice food for everyone, and have heard really good things about the Cosy Club which is why we chose to have dinner with you. I have gone ‘off-menu’ in the past and understand what you mean about the opportunity to be creative; it can have amazing results. Last time I did this however (the Magdalen Chapter), the open kitchen was clearly in a state of panic(!) and their attitude to me as a customer was highly disappointing. On this occasion at the Cosy Club I just thought the imagination was missing a little, or that I’d caught the chef off-guard and s/he wasn’t experienced in cooking without meat or dairy ingredients. I hope my comments were taken in the constructive manner that I intended them.


I really appreciate your response and taking forward some ideas; I’ll be sure to let my friends and local vegans know about it! I would love to come back sometime in the near future.


I’m so glad that more and more eateries around Exeter are considering the vegan community and don’t make us feel like difficult customers, simply for our ethical choices.  In the past I have told serving staff that I’m a lactose-intolerant vegetarian as this sadly sometimes means that the service is better.  It is great to know that places like yours exist.

The Cosy Club, Southernhay Gardens, Exeter

visited on the 23^rd July 2014, for a new job celebration.

Surrounded by the Estate Agents and Solicitors of Exeter, the Cosy Club is in an unusual location away from the bustle of the City Centre, but walkable if you know where it is. I had heard (tummy) rumblings of their vegan menu on various social media groups and when asked by a lactose intolerant comrade where I'd prefer to dine to celebrate leaving employment, it came straight to mind as the ideal venue. 

 

Inside, the building is absolutely beautiful and quite unique; very roomy despite having that 'bric-a-braccy' vintage feel. The mismatched furniture and lampshades really give the place a quirk, making it feel more relaxed, yet retaining an air of poshness that makes you feel a bit special for the evening.  You might say it's, well, cosy.

I had booked online a few days in advance, being very careful to mention our dietary requirements, so was pleased that a vegan menu was presented to me without having to ask. Annoyingly, by the time I'd realised that the Mains were 'please ask the server for details', she had vanished. Upon her return, I asked the inevitable and she scurried off to the kitchen to get the low-down. Exciting stuff!

The waitress soon reappeared and told me that there was “stuffed peppers on a bed of new potato and string bean salad.” Nice, but I waited for the second option. Alas, the poor girl looked at me in desperation, willing me to accept her offer; it was obvious that there was nothing else unless I wanted to look like one of those demanding, unappeasable vegans.

I ordered the rather odd main and it arrived. It was a perfectly good meal and it was clear that no dairy had been used.... However. Yes, there sadly is a however. The combination of stuffed peppers and new potatoes was unusual, and I suspect that the lack of sauce was because gravy or some kind of tomato relish would have clashed with one of the other components on the plate. As a result it was fairly dry and uninteresting. The red peppers were tasty, but I felt that the stuffing lacked some love; they were filled with quite a conservative portion of plain couscous and chives, with an unseasoned baked tomato perched on top.  The potatoes and beans were somewhat  al dente, but since they were the 'salad', I guess it made sense, right?

Vegan Main; Stuffed peppers on a bed of new potato and bean salad

Soul food is supposed to make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside. This food made me feel disappointed and slightly cheated, like I had been an inconvenience to the chef and s/he had thrown the dish together randomly with whatever was left over in the kitchen. There was also no beans/lentils/tofu/tempeh/seitan/vegan cheese/alternative which I would have expected from a restaurant that advertises vegan food as a speciality .

I was glad that I had room saved for dessert; the chocolate orange torte was creamy and rich, though I still felt that it lacked that extra garnish that would have made it pretty as well as delicious. A slither of orange rind and a sprig of mint would have made all the difference.


Whilst waiting to pay, I asked the server whether the vegan main was changed regularly in case I came back (there's a restaurant in Torquay that's had the same veggie option for 15 years...). His response was that chefs do in fact make it up on the night and it depended who was working.  It's a shame that this is so obvious; talented, experienced chefs should be able to knock something delicious up for any dietary requirement, let alone one which is specified on the menu as being catered for.
The following day I received an e-mail offering me a chance to win £50 for my feedback. I gladly took them up on this and what transpired will follow in the next article.  Spoiler: I did not win £50, but they get 10/10 for customer service.

Pepe Nero, Bond Street, Bristol

 Visited on the 13^th November, for pre-hippodrome nourishment

One of the joys of going to a ‘proper city’ is that you can be fairly confident that there will be one or more vegan restaurants.  In Bristol, home of the south-west’s VegFest festival, this is certainly true.  It’s a mission to find a place that has a vegan option, it takes pre-planning to find a place that serves only vegan food and so has a wide range.  Pepe Nero somehow manages to be a bit of both.  The number of vegan options is equal to or greater than the number of meat counterparts, and the vegan selection is varied and exciting! 

Pepe Nero is the place you see in your belly-rumbling dreams.  There’s a lot of vegan food about these days, but much of it is, dare I say it, healthy.  We human beings naturally crave a bit of junk food now and then, and Pepe Nero has this covered (though I hasten to add their food is far from the greasy processed muck that is usually what we call ‘fast food’).  Situated by Bristol’s ‘Bear Pit’ for the last 2 years, Pepe Nero offers a range of Italian food, with an extensive range of vegan pizza.  It will take you at least one hour to decide; I suggest you check their website before you go, be amazed in advance, and plan your choice ahead!

Salvatore, the founder/manager, came to speak to us after hearing about this blog.  He is a traditional Italian cook, and uses recipes from his home town (not too much yeast and a long rise time) which makes the dough lighter and less heavy on the stomach.  All of his staff are from the same area of Italy, “the heel of the boot”, which gives it a really nice family vibe.

The decision to provide vegan alternatives was in response to market research and demand, and he said that while the ingredients are more expensive for him, this isn’t reflected in the sale price and he gets a lot of vegan customers.  They offer a choice of base (plain or wholemeal), and they use organic ingredients.    

So let’s cut to the chase; could it be that the food was as fantastic as it sounded?  There is a very simple answer, and it isn’t ‘No’.  Enjoy that double negative and then book yourself a table.  I started with a huge bowl of unpitted olives, .  They were big, salted, spiced with chilli, and lovely as expected.  The only thing stopping me demolishing the entire bowl was the fear of not having space for my pizza de resistance!  My partner enjoyed a bruschetta which I’m told was also very nice.

Finally, it was time for pizza!  Pepe Nero makes vegan pizza an art form with their combination of different ‘cheeses’, all perfectly melted and indistinguishable from their dairy counterparts, both in looks and taste; something I have seldom achieved at home!  I chose a vegan ‘Salmone’ pizza, and the other half chose a vegan spicy chorizo topping for his.

Vegan Salmone pizza

Vegan Diavola

Not having ever eaten real salmon, I don’t know whether it was realistic, but that is neither relevant or necessary for us to know (though the other half confirmed there was little difference).  The pizza was perfectly cooked, very tasty, and I ate all of it (almost) without feeling like I needed to be either rolled home or spend the winter months holed up in a gym.  My dining buddy (currently transitioning from carnivore to herbivore) summed it up in some beautiful words, whilst he absorbed the aroma and appearance: “Nothing was hurt to make this?”.  

As I’m sure you have gathered, Pepe Nero is a fantastic place to eat, and one of a kind in this country.  I wholeheartedly hope that it continues to prosper, and that we see franchises popping up all over Britain.  If not, this is possibly a restaurant worth upping sticks and moving to Bristol for.  Incredible!

On the Waterfront, Quayside

Visited on the 27th August, for a treat.

Before I begin, I have a confession to make. Ten years ago, myself and friends did a runner from On The Waterfront (OTW). It took them 2 hours to serve us a pizza, and we drank our own wine (bought in the off-license) after stealing glasses from the bar because the staff were too busy to serve us on my 21st birthday.  We didn't wait around for the bill.

Thankfully things have changed. Though pizza is still the dominant dish, it sits alongside various other bloody and non-bloody options. Now I do love a slice of non-cheese pizza, but now prefer to make my own vegan cheesy versions at home, so didn't feel the need to pay for something I could teach them a thing or two about. Apologies for ego, neck has been appropriately wound in.

Interestingly, OTW now offer a vegan salad; smoked tofu, bean sprouts, pak choi, radish and fennel. Despite fennel being my ultimate food enemy, I gave it a try. Smoked tofu trumps fennel.

The salad arrived quickly, in a very attractive bowl. I could write a paragraph or two about the loveliness of the bowl, but I'll resist on this occasion.  The salad itself sadly paled in comparison.  Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the use of tofu, but frying it up a little would have been a massive improvement. Tofu is not equal to cheese (despite what some people seem to think), and should not be used as such! I also appreciate a bean sprout as an avant-garde salad ingredient, but have you ever tried eating those guys raw, with a fork? It just doesn't work for me.

You will already know that I don't appreciate fennel in any shape or form. I'm willing to let that go on this occasion, but dressing a salad in Thai sweet chilli sauce and serving raw tofu is not cooking. It was sticky, sweet, and awkward to eat.

Now I've come across like a complete snob, I confess that it wasn't that bad. It was a perfectly edible vegan option that could have been done better given a little thought. Well done to OTW for thinking of it and making my menu choice much simpler than normal. They're on the right track; all they need now is some vegan cheese on their pizzas and a whole new market will be theirs.

Tea on the Green, Cathedral Green

Visited on Saturday 7th September 2013 for a lovely lunchette

I started this blog full of enthusiasm to tell my dietary comrades about the best places to eat in and around Exeter if you don't happen to like a rotting carcass alongside your food. Now, six months later, I have finally found somewhere that won't make me sound like a miserable, moaning old herbivore! The fact is, most eateries don't know how to cook a good veggie meal and usually display any number of culinary ignorances; veggies only eat salad, tofu is tasteless and impossible to cook, any veggie meal MUST contain goats' cheese, veggies must have their plate piled high with carbs or they'll die. The chefs at Tea on the Green however, seem to actually know their stuff and prepare tasty, nutritious and original food for vegans, without making a meal of it. Well, strictly speaking they do make a meal of it, and that's what makes the experience so very pleasant.

I'd been to Tea on the Green some time ago, so when it was suggested, memories of their lovely Lebanese panini sprang immediately to mind. We entered tentatively; Saturdays tend to render the place rammed so we regarded the waitress's face sheepishly to gauge her reaction to our presence. Today our luck was good and we were assigned our very own table and chairs.

Alright, alright, so there was another reason I decided to ignore my dwindling bank account and go to the ever so slightly pricey TotG; their self-pouring teapots. At £2.60 for one cup's worth it's a little steep (ha ha), but worth every penny. They do provide a pot of hot water of you want to eek it out.  I opted for the Japanese rice tea over my smoky old favourite Lapsang Souchon, purely because the rice tea self-poured; all you have to do it place the pot on top of the cup! The rice tea was probably one of the most lovely things I've ever ingested and you can pick yourself up a bag from their shop for under a fiver. They also offer a range of English-grown teas, produced in Cornwall.

I found my Lebanese wrap on the menu and sat poised to place my order. However, whilst waiting for the other half to decide whether he wanted dead fish or dead cow, I discovered that I has been a bit over-zealous and overlooked the two (yes, two!) other vegan options! The butternut squash wrap was something I'd never seen before so my mind was re-made up.

The wrap was truly beautiful. The butternut squash wasn't warm enough to wilt the salad, nor did it have that fridgey un-freshness that can make root veg crumble like chalk. I'm infinitely grateful to the poor sod that had to peel the pomegranate and release those little balls of fruity flavour; the combination of the sharp fruit with sweet balsamic onions was unexpectedly good. The accompanying portion of chips was just the right size.

On the way out I asked about the teapots and teas, and received a way more in-depth answer than I had expected. I now know when their deliveries come in and how many cups of tea I can get out of one bag. I can't praise this place enough and will definitely return. Don't let the name fool you, tea is just the beginning of great things here...