The Imperial (Wetherspoon), New North Street

visited on the 21st February, for a lazy dinner

You are probably expecting this review to be a full-on slating of Wetherspoon's dining. We are all aware of their kitchen practices and reputedly low quality food. We have all given them the benefit of the doubt on some occasions because they're cheap and cheerful.

I visited on Thursday's 'Curry and a Pint' night; originally just for drinks, but as so often can happen, food eventually became a necessity. I could have chosen a worse night as there were more options than just the standard veggie burger or three-bean chilli.

On Thursdays there are two veggie curries available; the sweet potato and spinach curry, and the roasted vegetable makhani. Sides include veggie samosas, onion bhajis, and bombay potatoes- I'm assuming all sides are vegan, but the menu is quite inconclusive and only identifies vegetarian and gluten free dishes. The only option specifically described as vegan is the sweet potato curry, if you forgo the naan bread and take extra poppadoms. Be prepared- the bar staff find this a little difficult to compute. The barman was quite happy to delete the bread, but adding poppadoms was almost a step beyond comprehension. After a little explaining and pointing at the menu by me, and experimental jabbing at the till by the him, my order was placed.

Sweet potato and spinach curry, vegan style

Whilst I spent a full 5 minutes trying to gulp down the absolutely atrocious free wine (I suggest you order shots or beer as your freebie), our food appeared before us, fresh from the microwave. Somewhat surprisingly, I have to say that it looked wonderfully appetizing. I was slightly confused by the yellow basmati rice (why not pilau, and what did they colour it with?), but the curry looked colourful and lovely. The taste matched the appearance; it was delicious. If it wasn't for the ugly mango chutney sachet, I would have believed that it was all freshly cooked that day.

Another small giveaway was the instant poppadoms. I use them myself at home; they come as flat, bendy corn discs which you microwave for 20 seconds to make them crisp and bubbly. The kitchen operator hadn't nuked them quite long enough and the edges were uncooked, but this is easy to do and is just a picky comment. Given the price of £6.75 including cough syrup wine, it would be foolish to expect restaurant quality. As a side-note, if the wine wasn't free then there's no way anyone would pay money for it.

Compared to what I was expecting, this meal far surpassed that. It was full of coconutty flavour and attractively served. It was reassuring to know that it had been identified as vegan, and was also accredited with an unnamed award.

It seems almost pointless to write a review of a particular Wetherspoon's, since its chain nature means that food quality will vary across the country, and it is after all only somewhere to eat when necessary (and not as a planned occasion). Nevertheless, I was pleasantly surprised and always enjoy sitting in the beautiful Orangery.

Wetherspoon's is what it is. On this occasion it was a little more than that, and it was much appreciated.

The wonderful Orangery